Routes

• One Fork In Eden I 5.7 (Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch, New Hampshire) Variation (on Standard Route III 5.6 R): Begin forty feet to the left of the regular seventh pitch, starting beside a large, three trunked oak tree growing close to the cliff. 7a. Layback a wide crack (#4 friend) into a wide open book above.When the left-hand crack ends, move right two crack systems and belay above a left-facing corner capped by a ceiling, on a stance with a piton and bolt anchor, 165', 5.7. 8a. Join 6000 SALAD BOWL (III 5.8) last pitch, up rotten rock to the top. FA: Kurt Winkler & Berthold Horn September 14, 1986. Reference: Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, 2nd edition, 1987, Ed Webster.

• Hugo's Horror III 5.6 R (Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch, New Hampshire) Reconstruction of historic route (Not recommended). Start up somewhere to the right of very rotten gully somewhere above end of Cinema gully. Then cross the rotten gully (10'). Move upwards as holds get thinner. Move alternately up leftwards on right side of completely smooth slab while avoiding swinging out over the slab. Come up directly under end of summit hiking trail. Turn corner to the left on the horizontal to get up last 10'. Place piton just before corner, then reach back to remove it. Watch out for loose projection rock. Piton on left. SA: Kurt Winkler & Berthold Horn May 27th 1989. Reference: Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, 3rd edition, Ed Webster (to appear).

• North West Buttress, Denali Well, almost. We had bad wheather and sat parked on the Peters Glacier for more than a week after dropping down from Kahiltna pass without events. When we did get up on the NorthWest Buttress, there was obvious avalanche danger, so we finally bailed out, short of food and fuel. If you find our cache in the rocks at the base, please bring back the cans of AGFA film. By mistake we left two exposed rolls and brought back two unexposed rolls. You are welcome to anything else that the crows didn't get, including our ‘cerebreal oedema meter’ — a small Rubik's cube — yes, it was a few years ago... See also “North West Buttress”

• Pohaku o Hanalei Instrumental in 1988 renaming of ‘Pohaku o Hanalei’ peak, elevation 3,787 m (12,423 ft) in Hawaii Volanoes National Park, on NE slope of Mauna Loa, 2.6 km (1.6 mi) NE of North Pit; Hawaii Co., Hawaii; 19N 30'23", 155W 33'28"; USGS map - Kokoolau 1:24,000. Older names shown on maps were ‘Hanalei,’ ‘Hanalei Peak,’ ‘Peak of Hanalei’ and in particular ‘Pohaku Hanalei.’ ‘Pohaku Hanalei’ peak elevation 3,889 m (12,760 ft) in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on SW slope of Mauna Loa, 2.1 km (1.3 mi) SW of South Pit; Hawaii Co., Hawaii; 19N 26'04", 155W 37'24"; USGS map - Mauna Loa 1:24,000. Heading to the wrong peak from the summit could be disastrous... See also “Christmas in Paradise”

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