Up Back Next

6/28 Mirrors

After our long yesterday, we were again in the mood for single pitch climbing, so we headed back to the Mirrors Sector and this time, climbed the 3-4m ladder to the section directly above the road We climbed Y'a Pas De Pet (6a+, 35m, #3033, p.333). Le Fou De L'Extreme Droite (6b, 35m, #3031, p.333), and Le Fou D'Artifice (6c, 30m, #3051, p.333) all of which started with a few hard moves (some much harder than the rating would suggest) and then a super easy slab.

Finally, we moved on to Salut Les Droit (7a, 15m, #3051, p.333) which the guidebook said had old equipment, though we didn't see where. This was an awesome, very interesting route, which we both did with one fall on sight. It did have one quite committing sequence in the middle of it. Here's the beta, in case anyone is interested... We worked two different starts to this route. You can either start on the big holds on the left, or on the far right of the opening, almost featureless slab (though this is much harder and much more committing before the first clip). After the 2nd clip on the opening face, move upward before moving left to the side-pull pocket so you'll have good feet for the a balancy move to rotate your body to the left to get the side-pull. After clipping there, work your feet left, putting the right foot just under the little overhand to the left of the side-pull. Get your right and left hands in the little pickets at your eye/chest level. Leaning to the left, and move your left foot up, either get an intermediate gaston with your right hand, or reach your left hand under the next small overhang. Then move quickly to reach a pocket on small ledge above that overhang. Here it's easy to pull yourself onto that ledge for a no-hands rest. Clip twice now: once where you stand, and again right above the next small overhang. The more interesting and committing move start by moving right at this point toward the bolt you just clipping (as opposed to straight upward). Your hand go right under the overhang. Move your right foot wide and your left foot up for the little corner where you just rested to get a stem. Reach blindly with left hand to find a nice two-finger pocket among many decoy pockets. Work hands and feet up onto the slab. Here's where it gets pretty committing before the next clip. After that there's myabe one more hard move and then the rest is easy.

ADD A DIAGRAM HERE

Worn post-climb fingertips

La Palud is in the background

Up Back Next