6/27 Heure Zero Sucks
There's not a whole lot to say about Heure Zero (6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 110m, #796, p.149) beyond "it sucks". We rapelled 100m along Sordidon (4c, 5c, A1.5c, 5a, 100m, #792, p.149) in the Sordidon Sector to large wooded ledge called Jardin des Bananes, where this route was supposed to begin. We had trouble finding it once we got there. Eric led out on the first pitch, which started with a run-out traverse and a lot of old-cordelette clipping. Amos led out the second pitch to find a few bolts (the last rusty), a piton, and then nothing. A three-star route this was not. We returned to the ledge only to find that there were no other sport routes in the area. Unsure of how to walk out of the gorge, and considering that it was 6pm, we decide to climb the easy trad chimney Sordidon along which we'd rapelled. With a single set of nuts, slings and a few fixed belay stations, Amos led the route-- carefully. Eric climbed the last pitch in darkness, his hand hitting the top (and the sun completely disappearing at the horizon) at 10pm.